If that freehub is constructed like the ones I’ve taken apart before, you’re out of luck. Like you suspected, the teeth lock the rotation of the freehub to the hub, unless the screw in the back is taken out first.

You can try hammering in a (slightly larger) torx key or using an easy-out (probably won’t work if it’s very tight).
As a last resort, you could try to drill out the screw (only so far that the freehub comes off, you don’t want to drill into the hub). Then you should hopefully be left with enough left of screw to grab with a pipe wrench.

My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I’m currently using.

You can host a Firefox sync server yourself. You could run that on something like a Raspberry Pi in your local network. If you need remote access, use something like cloudflare tunnels (although I guess that’s something else to be paranoid about).

Reminds me of this: Falsehoods Programmers Believe About Names

That’s why I don’t let every device decide individually. I know my router (FritzBox) prioritizes the pi-hole (it’s even called “preferred” and “alternative” DNS-Server in the UI)

I have my pi-hole setup as the upstream DNS in my router, with cloudflare as a secondary DNS. That way, all my devices always use the router for DNS (since that’s what is advertised in my DHCP) and the router then uses pi-hole if it’s available, or cloudflare if it isn’t. But the individual device doesn’t get to choose between different servers.

I’m guessing it’s about documenting the assembly of safety-critical components. If some part of, let’s say an airplane fails because a bolt comes loose, the manufacturer wants to have a paper trail attached to it to prove that this specific bolt was indeed torqued to the correct spec. Connecting the wrench to the network could make this documentation much easier.

Matlab

It’s called HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography. Your phone is taking three pictures: one at a medium exposure, one at a bit higher exposure and one at a bit lower exposure.

The higher exposed picture will have a blown-out sky, but more detail in the darker area, while the lower-exposed one will have a correctly exposed sky with the darker areas underexposed.

These pictures are then combined by taking the correctly exposed areas of each picture, i.e. the sky from the low-exposure picture and the shadows from the high-exposure one, giving you a single picture without over- or underexposed areas.

I don’t know about OpenCamera, but you should be able to select the size of the exposure bracket, meaning how much higher or lower the different pictures are exposed.