This is the correct answer - I know because I was there 10000 years ago and had to decide between this and buying a special case from koolance. Amusingly they still sell one for the outside.
They can also be handy if you have to do anything weird like route display cables from the GPU to the motherboard like for a thunderbolt display.
It entirely depends on how much and what you’ll use them for. They’re going to be around $200 USD all in, so if they’re for occasional use probably not. If you’re going to use them a lot like for work or a regular hobby then it’s not a crazy amount to spend. They tend to be more comfortable than flange earplugs, and a little better than foamies, but for me at least I don’t want them in for more than 3 hours.
Etymotic makes a few different ones for general noise, sleeping, music, and they also do ones for their earphones.
Look for a local print or embroidery shop that you can get like work shirts and business cards and whatnot made. Unless you’re really in the middle of nowhere, there’s probably a local print shop that will at least be able to point you in the right direction. If you want a one off instead of a small batch look for a place that offers embroidery - it sounds more expensive but because they can just throw whatever on the machine and do a one off, it’s usually actually less expensive than traditional screen printing. Specifically for hats in not sure if you can get them digitally printed in most smaller local shops.
If you are working with a specific company to produce a personalized / custom product, they will generally have at least one person on staff that can do design, or at least deal with any file conversion and technical stuff like that. They should be able to quote you a price.
If you are working with an artist first, they may have a company they’re familiar with to have the item produced, and if they do, should be able to handle most of it themselves. If they don’t, or you would like it produced somewhere specific, just let the artist know - most places will have all the information the artist will need on their website, or the artist can just get in touch with them directly.
In general, if you’re going to an artist or design shop they should be able to give you some kind of quote with a very rough idea of what you want - especially if they do this professionally, talking to people who don’t have an art background is basically half their job. If you want to be specific it’s much more useful to send something like a mood board or a collage of similar things than a bunch of text. It’s also generally a good idea to be open to their ideas, as they often have experience that may be helpful and will see some problems much quicker than you might.
Personally I’d like it if instead of just seeing the comment I’m replying to in the top half, I could just see the whole thread with maybe a button to go back to the comment that I’m replying to and it being highlighted or something.
I think you just invented Windows 13.
To be fair there’s a Linux version of the bedrock server. But yeah not having it on the steam deck is pretty annoying.
To be fair I’d call it a wash. Bedrock fixes a lot of weird stuff like quasi connectivity and being able to push things like chests with pistons but also introduces it’s own bugs like weird timing things and randomly taking fall damage. There’s also weird differences like being able to do things with cauldrons or just like minor texture differences that they are slowly bringing into sync.
Because Bedrock runs on phones, tablets, consoles, and a host of other random crap, and does so relatively well. Because of that the install base and playtime especially among younger players is actually massively skewed toward Bedrock being the more used. Add to that rumors that the Java codebase at least was a terrible mess, and the performance issues Java edition still has to this day and it’s no wonder they wanted to do a full rewrite, especially after having to make things like the console editions and even one for the 3DS.
The windows launcher is annoying though.
As someone who did this within the last couple years, my suggestion would be to just buy whatever new kit appeals to you and don’t worry about adapting your lenses. If you had Minolta autofocus lenses it might be worth getting into older Sony A Mount system, but if I remember right the adapter Minolta made for the manual focus lenses is rare and expensive.
I had a bunch of manual zuiko lenses and kit for my Olympus OMs, and adapted them on a Canon apsc DSLR and now a Sony a7s full frame. The fact of the matter is that other than a few times that I need a specialty lens the one modern lens that I bought basically lives on it.
Focusing a manual focus lens on an autofocus body is really hard. The focusing screens aren’t really made for it. On the mirror less a7s it’s better, but that’s largely because you can zoom way in on the screen and it has focus peaking like a video camera.
If you don’t care about video (which is worth considering) an older Sony is worth considering. An a6000 with the kit lens should run about 350-400 USD for the body used and about 50-150 for a used kit lens. Even the fancy g master standard zoom runs about 4-500 USD used. That’s looking at keh.com anyway, you could probably get a better deal on marketplace or eBay - they were very popular and pop up locally pretty much everywhere. If you want video moving to a new body like the 6400 gives you 4k which is a nice to have.
Yeah newsprint would be a pain in an inkjet depending on exactly what it’s like. It might not even be much thinner, it’s often a little “fluffy” so it can be printed fast.
If you take it in somewhere and get it spiral / coil bound that’s probably your best bet if you don’t want to do a binder. You can do it yourself but you basically need a little desktop machine to do the punching which is annoying unless you’re doing it regularly.
Traditional hardcover probably won’t work for you. That involves printing a bunch of booklets called signatures then sewing them together and it’s a whole thing. Basically there’s a reason well made hardcover books are expensive.
You could do perfect or tape binding pretty easy though. Essentially you glue all the edges to a backing and then wrap a cover around it. It works ok for low usage, but if you want it to lay flat or hold up to abuse you’ll have problems. You can kind of mitigate that by using a gpod spine backing but it’s not a perfect solution. If the copy you have isn’t already laid out for printing it may be worth it to edit it a bit so the contents are farther from the spine if you do that, but it makes printing a bit more complicated.
So, I’ve never pirated a book but I do have some printing and binding knowledge, so some of this might be off base.
If the original book isn’t fully chungus it’s probably printed on a low weight newsprint, a low weight coated paper, or something weird like vellum or scritta. Problem is most of that is going to be specialty and only really available in rolls or large sheets through a distributor.
Most of the thinner stuff you’ll be able to find in sheets has become a thing with fountain pen lovers. Look for Tomoe River or Bank paper. They are in the 50gsm range and should be a bit thinner than normal 75ish gsm copy paper. It’s going to be way more expensive than normal printer paper but it should be thinner. The other issue is actually getting your printer to reliably print on thinner paper. Home printers, especially inkjets, really don’t deal with thin paper particularly well. Lasers usually do better since they tend to use a different paper pickup and path, but they can still have issues.
Your printer should have a thin paper setting to reduce the amount of ink that it uses so you don’t get as much bleed. The other thing you’ll have to look out for is that those papers will take longer to dry than normal paper, so if your printer has a drying time you’ll probably need to set it as high as it will go. You might even want to wait a day before flipping it over for the duplex print. Which you definitely should some that will literally halve the size of the book. It will probably be fine anyway since this is likely a multi day project just given how long it will take to spit 1000 pages out of an inkjet.
Unless you absolutely need to have the whole thing with you all the time, I would consider printing it in volumes. Even if you duplicate sections like an index or glossary or reference section or whatever, you’re still probably going to have a lot less trouble and maybe spend less.
It looks like you have an SFX power supply listed, and from what I’m seeing that case can use a regular ATX size one. Unless there’s a requirement I’m not noticing, you could spend about half as much and get a pretty much equivalent ATX unit, especially if you drop down to 80+ gold from platinum - you probably won’t notice a huge difference unless electricity is extremely expensive where you live.
Personally, I too would look at air coolers instead of an AIO - for the price difference on those two parts you’re starting to get close to doing an older used GPU now instead of later. Asus says 130mm clearance which isn’t enough for to the biggest of tower coolers, but more than enough space for air without any real thermal compromise - especially on AMD. If you have the stock cooler that came with the APU it’s at least worth trying before spending a bunch, you might be surprised - the AMD coolers are pretty ok right now.
I would be annoyed but does anyone actually use the show desktop button?
I think it’s a conflation of the ideas of what copyright should be and actually is. I don’t tend to see many people who believe copyright should be abolished in its entirety, and if people write a book or a song they should have some kind of control over that work. But there’s a lot of contention over the fact that copyright as it exists now is a bit of a farce, constantly traded and sold and lasting an aeon after the person who created the original work dies.
It seems fairly morally constant to think that something old and part of the zeitgeist should not be under copyright, but that the system needs an overhaul when companies are using your live journal to make a robot call center.
You can accomplish essentially the same thing using the self timer and turning on top shot.
To add to this, if you happen to be somewhere that is having northern (or southern I guess) lights and it doesn’t look particularly amazing, set up and do an astrophotography shot anyway. The time lapses it produces from what looks like almost nothing to the naked eye are kind of amazing.
If you want a really clean photo of something still, turn on night sight even if it’s not particularly dark. It seems like it forces a bit longer shutter speed, and uses slower but better processing. It’s not an enormous difference, but it is usually visibly less noisy and sharper when you zoom in on the final photo.
You need quotes around the font name. Courier works because it’s one word.
I believe you can change the scaling algorithm obs uses? Right click the source and go to “scale filter” is what Google is telling me, not at a computer right now. I think it defaults to bicubic which should be ok though? The switch does its own internal scaling a lot of the time and that can look pretty bad though, but unless you get into some serious shenanigans that’s basically baked in.